Central London

Published on June 26th, 2017 | by Ben Southwood


Wing Wing, Bloomsbury

The last time I had Korean Fried Chicken (which, confusingly, has the initials KFC) was in Hong Kong. No, Hong Kong isn’t Korea, but just as you get better French, Italian, and Spanish food in London than you do in the Far East, you get better Thai, Korean and Japanese food in Hong Kong, despite its Chinese ethnic background.

Ever since then I wondered why this wasn’t a London trend. Londoners love fried chicken. We just recently had a babyfaced chicken shop reviewer become a major worldwide celebrity just for taking cheap battered bird faux-seriously. And we love ethnic “interpretations” of stuff we already like for separate reasons. But I’ve only heard of the one place serving the stuff: CheeMc in Walworth Road.

Sadly, since I discovered CheeMc I moved up to North London and it was inconceivable that I was going to journey to Elephant & Castle. But then WingWing opened in Bloomsbury—and I hope it’s the beginning of a trend.

WingWing serves a whole bunch of dishes, but nearly all of them are centred on double-fried wings, drumsticks, and boneless thighs and breasts. This fried chicken element is, appropriately, by some way the best thing they do: extremely dry and non-greasy on the outside; consistently crispy without being brittle and break-y; juicy, but not wet and slimy, on the inside. Even in drumsticks—where that can be nearly impossible!

The coolest thing about the place wasn’t the fried chicken but their beer tap. Hear me out: it fills up an entire pint glass in around two seconds. You don’t even have to flick a switch on or off! You just stick the glass onto a spout that starts spewing Hite—a wonderfully refreshing and crisp, relatively low flavour Korean beer—and bob’s your uncle: the glass is full. They even let me try it out. Be careful, though, it relies on a magnetic valve at the bottom that you can push upwards. We, er, spilt quite a bit of beer.

The other options weren’t as great, though they did the job: slaw, chips, katsu and so on. I would always go for the (free range) wings or thighs. Check it out.


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