Published on July 13th, 2016 | by Sophia Longhi0
The new 35 New Cavendish, Marylebone
This super-sexy, classy, brassy Marylebone gem has been on my mind since I first visited back in 2014. I would reminisce about the oysters and about the steak tartare that was whipped up before my very eyes. I longed to lounge again in the sleek teal banquettes and soak up the comforting mix of luxury and home-cooking from Italy, Spain and France.
The 35 New Cavendish I returned to recently certainly looked the same, but with the appointment of a new Head Chef, Douglas Santi, the menu has had something of a freshen-up and the result is a more youthful, more ‘new’ 35 New Cavendish.
I was greeted by a delicious Negroni Sbagliato (literally an ‘incorrect Negroni’ made without the gin and with Prosecco) and this maverick spin on the traditional was a sure sign of things to come. A glance at the new menu assured me that the luxuries that I had loved the first time were still there (Fine de Claire oysters, Aubrey Allen steak tartare) but they shared air time with brasserie favourites, like Croque Monsieur, Salmon and Cream Cheese Bagels and The Cavendish Burger. Although some things looked out of place (you can order an extra portion of sausages, if you like), I was happy to learn that Santi champions ingredient-led dishes and that using high quality produce is his priority.
The addition of more health-conscious dishes, such as Sweet Potato, Goji Berries and Pomegranate Molasses and Quinoa Tabbouleh with Mediterranean Prawns, bring a modern ‘neighbourhood’ feel to 35 New Cavendish, which encourages guests to drop by anytime – and with the friendly, casual style of hospitality that the waitstaff emit, you really feel like you could.
The dish that jumps off the menu is the 100 Layers Lasagna – a creation that began life in Santi’s grandmother’s kitchen. This lasagna recipe uses layers of thin pancake instead of pasta to create the illusion of a hundred layers and is impressively presented as a cross-section on a large plate. It certainly achieves the ‘wow factor’ amongst diners, and while I’m not entirely convinced of pancake over pasta, the ragu is wonderfully tasty and goes down very well with a smooth glass of Valpollicella Vigneto Altarol.
For me, the stand-out dish on the menu is the Josper Baked Artichokes with Mint and Parmesan. The smokiness achieved from the Josper oven brings new layers of flavour to the artichokes, and all at once, they are soft, crunchy, sweet and salty – veg has never tasted so sumptuous! With such an expansive and varied menu, perhaps the Josper might help to hone the menu’s strengths in months to come.
35 New Cavendish, 35 New Cavendish St, W1G 9TRShare This Post