Central London

Published on May 25th, 2017 | by Ben Southwood

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Gelateria @ Mercante, Mayfair

So apparently savoury, or savoury-ish, ice cream is a thing! As well as some extremely good gelato—seriously, the best pistachio you ever had, insanely creamy and true-tasting despite actually being a sorbet—Mercante’s new Gelateria “pop up” for the summer is also linked with a few regular dishes, presumably intended to cool you down now that warmth has finally hit the UK.

Yes, this really is a beef tartare and those really are bits of spring onion on top of that ice cream scoop.

Especially good was this olive oil ice cream. It tasted just like earthy grassy extra virgin olive oil, and it was actually good in a tomato salad.

Of course, if you’re not that way inclined, you can get regular dishes: this one was lamb, cooked medium rare, with bitter wilted spinach and a sweet (port-based?) jus.

Now they just need to pedestrianise Piccadilly so these beautiful hotels aren’t marred by four lanes of diesel-chugging black cabs whizzing along!

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