Published on November 21st, 2014 | by Rebecca Anne Milford0
Sunday Lunch @ Brighton Way, Streatham
Summary: With roasts like this, and such welcoming friendly staff, then you will want to make Brighton Way a regular haunt
Hmm, beef or waitress? It’s not often I’m confronted with a dilemma such as this. But, after my visit to the new restaurant and bar Brighton Way in Streatham, then this is the decision I face. Which should I praise most?
Both, you see, were superb. For one thing, I was asked specifically how I would like the beef. I suppose this shouldn’t be uncommon, but I seem to have hit a run of bad luck with regards to roast beef. Each Sunday lunchtime I quibble over whether to indulge in a hearty bit of slightly-cooked cow, only to be told that ‘since it’s already cooked then we can serve it as pink as possible’. The result is usually a brownish slice with the faintest memory of where blood used to be – nice, but not ideal.
At Brighton Way I asked for it rare, and boy, was it rare. I swear I heard a faint ‘moo’ as the plate was put down; two huge slivers of beef that looked succulent enough to cut with a chopstick. We could not fault it, nor the gravy, which was rich, almost plum-dark, and tasted as if it had been reduced for hours. When we asked for more not an eyelid was batted, and it was the ideal accompaniment for the sweet earthiness of parsnips and carrots, and the crispy-outside fluffy-inside potatoes. As roast dinners go, it was up there with the best.
So, on to Efia, our waitress, who right from the get-go was a star. We had a table booked by the window, but when we said we’d like to sit at the bar for a while she acquiesced with a smile. She was also the perfect amount of attentive, evidently gaging that the first order of the day was a Bloody Mary and a good gossip with my dining partner.
The BM proved so good we decided to try a couple more of the cocktails – an exciting list that offered the classics along with some pretty groovy innovations. I went for the Pirates Tail, which was a sweet-meets-fiery combination of Appleton V/X rum shaken with Scotch Whisky and lime juice, then topped with ginger beer for that extra kick and garnished with tobacco leaves. My partner sipped away at the Desperate Royals – Gold flakes and saffron infused Sloanes Gin, stirred with Lillet Blanc and garnished with zingy grapefruit. Both were ideal ways to start the afternoon, and we were completely unhurried the whole time – just what you want from Sunday lunch.
When we did order, Efia offered her opinion on what was nice – including the crab tempura, which had caught our eye anyway. This arrived, succulent with just the lightest coating of non-greasy batter, and strands of juicy crab inside which we dipped into the sticky sweet chilli sauce.
When we’d finished smacking our lips over the crab, it was time to retreat to our table to enjoy the roast dinner. Three choices (beef chicken and pork) were all accompanied by veg and potatoes, and it had to be the beef. Which, as I have already described, was phenomenal.
At the very end we simply had to taste the sticky toffee pudding – my waist band may have been complaining, but it’s a favourite of mine and so I felt a duty to try. Surprise surprise, this was equally a delight – spongy, cakey goodness, not too sickly, and with the slight sharpness of black treacle – all topped with caramel ice cream which melted onto the hot dessert.
Brighton Way is from the people behind The Great Exhibition, and those guys know how to do pubs. This establishment has gone in the direction of more of a bar/restaurant scene. The decor is modern and contemporary; lots of pale wood on the floors, the tables, the bar, and even on the walls along with exposed brick to give it a bit of a New York loft feel. It’s the kind of place one can sit at the bar and enjoy drinks in the evening, or come with friends for a big meal. The menu also showcases loads of other great British dishes, such as stacked burgers, ribs and fish and chips
I imagine that the place will be very popular with locals, and it’s definitely the kind of place to make a destination spot if you want a casual but excellently cooked meal. With roasts like this, and such welcoming friendly staff, then you will want to make Brighton Way a regular haunt.
Brighton Way, 5 Streatham High Rd, SW16 1EFShare This Post