Published on August 20th, 2014 | by Sophie Coulthard0
Bottomless Brunch at One Canada Square
Summary: Food and service as impressive as the surroundings
Canary Wharf may not be first on your list when choosing a boozy weekend brunch destination, but it’s time to throw caution to the wind and start getting to know the DLR a little better on your days off. Forget debaucherous Thursday night drinks at the Slug and Lettuce; these days it’s all about bottomless brunch at One Canada Square on a Saturday morning.
Surprisingly, Canary Wharf isn’t as much of a ghost town as one might expect outside of the working week. Although a little sterile, there are plenty of shops open and enough people milling around for this to start becoming more of a normal place to hang out at the weekend.
One Canada Square is first and foremost a skyscraper, and the restaurant (which boasts the same name) is just as imposing. Set on the same floor as the building’s designer shops, the striking lobby boasts impossibly high ceilings and marble for as far as the eye can see. Double doors lead you to a slick restaurant that exudes understated elegance. Dark, wooden floors and panelling, plush leather booths, crystal sharp bar design; there’s no question that this is a man’s world, but not aggressively so. A hint of Art Deco shines through with the recurring green marble, a dramatic cross staircase, colourful art and a white piano that add softness and a touch of femininity to the restaurant.
Guests are swiftly seated and offered drinks; only a fool would bypass the bottomless element to the brunch and ignore the never-ending stream of Bloody Mary’s, Raspberry Bellinis, Prosecco and wine on offer. We’d recommend starting with a cheeky glass of Prosecco – the best way to help decide what to choose from the delicious, three-course menu. Take heed now; make sure you come with an empty stomach and high ambitions. Head chef Jamie Dobbin, formerly at The Ivy, has excelled himself.
The Eggs Benedict were a delight to start off the meal with; the single serving was light, the egg yolk shockingly orange, the hollandaise sauce rich but sparingly used, and the crackling an unusual yet obvious touch that I’m surprised other restaurants don’t follow. Seafood fans shouldn’t ignore the soft shell crab version, boasting a spicy twist on the classic with jalapeño hollandaise sauce for those who fancy a real flavour hit to start the day. Other options to start include the braised kale and broccoli omelette with sesame seeds for the health-conscious, or the meatier but equally delicious smoked chicken, wild rabbit and guinea fowl terrine with spiced gooseberry chutney.
Main courses are another delight for the taste buds. The blueberry buttermilk pancakes with smoked streaky bacon and maple syrup are a real triumph – the pancakes are light and fluffy and studded with the jewel-like fruit, sandwiching perfectly cooked bacon. Topped off with a generous pouring of maple syrup over yet another cluster of blueberries, the dish manages to be indulgent, but somehow not too sickly. Those who favour savoury dishes can’t go wrong with the salmon and smoked haddock fishcake, served with deliciously rich beurre blanc and spinach. Also on offer is the shorthorn burger served with smoked cheddar and the spring pea tortellini with sauce vierge and Peccorino for vegetarians.
If you find enough space for dessert, it’s recommended to share. The Banoffee-bocker glory is more than enough between two and as decadent as you can imagine. Chocolate fans won’t be able to resist the bitter chocolate delice with salted caramel and burnt orange ice cream, or you can choose the comforting apple pie with ice cream or custard.
Service is understated but excellent, presentation exquisite, atmosphere a little quiet at first but picks up at around lunchtime, and the bottomless cocktails are not to be missed. The Raspberry Bellinis in particular are beautifully served with a mixing stick topped with the fruit for a nice added touch – presentation is something that is clearly never forgotten here. At £20 pounds for 2 courses or £25 for 3 and £15 extra to add unlimited drinks it’s not cheap, but it’s not going to break the bank either. Certainly it’s a better deal than you’d get in the west end, and you’re much less likely to have to queue for hours for the privilege, too.
One Canada Square Restaurant, 1 Canada Square, Canary Wharf, E14 5ABShare This Post