Published on December 3rd, 2014 | by Sophia Longhi1
35 New Cavendish, Marylebone
Summary: Classic, old-fashioned service to the newly-fashionable Marylebone
Royal blue and gold is the chosen colour scheme for 35 New Cavendish’s branding, and it more than sets the opulent tone for Marylebone’s latest addition to its rather refined dining scene. Appealing to ‘raconteurs, provocateurs and bon viveurs’, there is something very ‘members club’ about this place – not surprising, seeing as the General Manager, Ermanno, leaves a blazing trail of them (including George Club and Dover Street Arts Club) behind him.
An interior of dark wood, exposed brick and blue velvet studded chairs echoes of a 1940s gentlemen’s club, but here they seem to have achieved sophisticated and sexy without the stuffiness. The bar downstairs is lively and produces killer cocktails that are mixed and shaken with skill and passion; the bar team are keen to impress and deliver something to personal taste, rather than rigidly stick to the menu. From the bar, a staircase leads to the upstairs restaurant, where you will find everything you would expect from a fine dining establishment – white linen and polished silver – yet, the layout ensures a cosy, intimate vibe.
Head Chef, Alfonso, who trained at the world-famous El Bulli in Spain, has devised a menu inspired by Spanish, French and Italian modern cuisine. We are encouraged to try a selection from the raw bar to start, accompanied by a glass of crisp Prosecco. The oysters are fantastic and a wonderfully flamboyant way to begin a fine meal, and we also try a selection of ceviche, which tastes sweet, clean and delicate.
An expertly-made steak tartare follows with an accompanying deep red wine, the Medalla Real Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile. And how can we tell it is expertly made? Because it is whipped up directly in front of us, each ingredient being added to our taste and preference. With meat supplied by the same butcher as the Queen, if you are going to try steak tartare in London, try it here. Ermanno also recommends the Carabinero Prawn Risotto served in a light bisque broth, one of their star dishes. The fleshy prawn is full of flavour, as it soaks up the intense fish stock and the rice is perfectly cooked with an al dente bite.
The seafood is so divine that we choose the linguine with clams as our main course. Again, it is made by Ermanno in front of us and the fresh ingredients are transferred onto the plate and into our mouths in minutes. This pasta dish is extremely good – aromatic, punchy with a range of textures – and is a lighter option if you don’t fancy a meaty main course.
According to Italians, a meal isn’t finished without cheese, so we choose to take the cheeseboard that arrives with exquisitely oozing soft Brie. According to me, a meal isn’t finished without something sweet, so we try the curious-sounding pineapple ravioli, which arrives looking like a strange sea-creature, decorated with pretty violet petals. The sensation of texture is delightfully unique and incredibly moreish – a perfect choice for a light dessert.
Theatrical, polished and luxuriously chic, 35 New Cavendish brings classic, old-fashioned service to the newly-fashionable Marylebone.
35 New Cavendish, 35 Cavendish Sq, Marylebone, W1G 9TRShare This Post